Yukata girls in Hakone-Yumoto
Hakone has two main highlights: views of Mt Fuji, and hot springs. The hot springs are a popular getaway for Tokyo people. I recommend actually staying overnight at a ryokan that has hot springs. See my post on ryokan.
First, Mt Fuji. Now, I speak from bitter experience here: you cannot see Mt Fuji from Hakone-Yumoto; you will need to travel a good 45 minutes or more to see it. Some of the best views are from Lake Ashi (take a bus to Moto-Hakone/Hakone-machi), or on the ropeway going from Sounzan.
Mt Fuji from the ropeway
The other tip is, Mt Fuji is usually not very visible. If seeing it is important to you, be sure to choose the clearest day possible; the cooler months of the year are better for this. If it's summer, even on a fairly clear day, don't get your hopes too high. You're better off going, hoping just to see some pretty nature and scenery; that way you won't be too disappointed. ^_^
The Hakone 'recommended course'
I took the Hakone 'recommended course' on a very clear, sunny winter's day. It was lovely, and I recommend it. This is the only time I've ever been able to take good pictures of Mt Fuji. Be aware that you will spend a lot of time travelling - each leg of the trip takes a while - but the journey itself is the point.
View of Mt Fuji from Lake Ashi.
On this course you will start and finish at Hakone-Yumoto - bus to Hakone-machi, take a boat across Lake Ashi, take a ropeway up the mountain, take a cable car to Gora, and the Hakone Tozan train back to Hakone-Yumoto. Or you can do it in reverse.
Some highlights of this journey are the boat ride across the lake - the scenery is really nice - the views of Mt Fuji, and visiting Owakudani. This is on the ropeway route. It's called 'hell valley' because it's full of sulfurous vents spewing smoke - very cool. You can also eat black eggs boiled in the hot springs, which are supposed to add 7 years to your life. Sadly, when I went, they were sold out.
Owakudani
If you're going to take this course, you should buy a 'Hakone Free Pass', which lets you ride the various trains, cable car, ropeway, boat and bus without having to buy separate tickets for each. Also, it will save you money, especially if you are going to travel for two days, as each leg on its own is quite expensive. Be sure you take the correct form of transport though. For example, there are two companies that run boats across Lake Ashi; only one of them is valid with the Free Pass.
Also from my own experience, I can warn you: if you're coming from Tokyo or Yokohama, it will be a lengthy trip; you should come early and be aware of the timetables. Basically, everything closes Excessively Early. You should plan to have completed your route by 5pm or earlier, as many of the forms of transportation etc stop running at 4:30-ish.
Other highlights
If you have time to try other activities in Hakone, I also recommend the Hakone Open-Air museum (on the Hakone Tozan line, get out at Chokoku no mori). I really loved it. I'll write a separate post about this place.
I also really enjoyed Yunessun, which is like a hot springs 'theme park'. It has lots of 'specialty' hot spring baths, like green tea or coffee baths. There's a small hot spring waterslide, and many other pools. You can bath in a salt bath that makes you float like the Dead Sea, or let tiny 'doctor fish' nibble the dead skin off your feet. Also, unlike normal hot spring baths, you wear a swimsuit, so men and women can enjoy it together. To get there, take a bus from Hakone-Yumoto and get out at the stop 'Kowakien'.
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